The Only Gaijin in the Onsen

After living in Japan for about four months, we left in mid-December. We miss it already.

One of the pleasures we discovered is the onsen, or hot spring. Originally referring to the natural volcanic springs themselves, and the villages around them, there are now onsens all over Japan. Many hotels have an onsen, and most towns will have several. Some people still use them as their primary bath and shower for keeping clean. (Outside of actual volcanic locations, these are technically sento rather than onsen.) You don’t actually wash yourself in the hot baths themselves; they are just for soaking, and there are often several, at different temperatures, mineral content, indoor and outdoor locations, whirlpools and even “electric baths” with muscle-stimulating currents. For actual cleaning, there is a bank of hand showers, usually with soap and shampoo. Some can be very basic, some much more like a posh spa, with massages, saunas, and a restaurant.

Our favourite, about 25 minutes away by bicycle, was Kirari Onsen Tsukuba. When not traveling, we tried to go every weekend, spending a day soaking in the hot water, eating the good food, staring at the gardens, snacking on Hokkaido soft cream — possibly the best soft-serve ice cream in the world (sorry, Carvel!), and just enjoying the quiet and peace. Even our seven- and nine-year old girls have found the onsen spirit, calming and quieting themselves down for at least a few hours.

Living in Tsukuba, lovely but not a common tourist destination, although with plenty of foreigners due to the constellation of laboratories and universities, we were often one of only one or two western families in our local onsen. It sometimes takes Americans (and those from other buttoned-up cultures) some time to get used to their sex-segregated but fully-naked policies of the baths themselves. The communal areas, however, are mixed, and fully-clothed. In fact, many hotels and fancier onsen facilities supply a jinbei, a short-sleeve pyjama set in which you can softly pad around the premises during your stay. (I enjoyed wearing jinbei so much that I purchased a lightweight cotton set for home, and am also trying to get my hands on samue, a somewhat heavier style of traditional Japanese clothing.)

And my newfound love for the onsen is another reason not to get a tattoo beyond the sagging flesh and embarrassment of my future self: in Japan, tattoos are often a symbol of the yakuza, and are strictly forbidden in the onsen, even for foreigners.

Later in our sabbatical, we will be living in the Netherlands, which also has a good public bath culture, but it will be hard to match the calm of the Japanese onsen.